
Sometime just before the beginning of 2011, I officially had lived in Switzerland longer than I ever lived in France. Oddly enough, this was a strange and even unwelcome anniversary. In so many ways, Switzerland is still a foreign country to me, while France and Burgundy especially feel much like a second home.
I found this photo while cleaning up some files a few weeks ago. Burgundy is a countryside best explored on bicycle or by foot and best savored slowly. I feel so lucky to have had more than a year to call it mine.
This little church was my regular stop in Givry, a town on the côte chalonnaise. Between it and the vinyards, there wasn’t much to see.
But that was the point.
I took these photos two weeks ago when it was so hot I could hardly stand to exhale. C’était la canicule. A heat wave rolled through our little piece of earth, bringing real summer for the first time this season. On this particularly hot day, I moped listlessly around the apartment, feigning responsibility in the form of half-hearted housework. Even the meagre breeze from the garden below seemed to come to a halting stop just outside our open windows. This is life without air conditioning, people. I stood at the window, sweat drops perched perpetually on my upper lip, tank top and shorts rolled in every direction possible, pathetically waiting for the little wisps of air to pass the surface of my skin.




My photos are a little over exposed, but then again, so were we.
Now, weeks later, fall is respectfully reminding us of its inevitability with crisp mornings and shorter evenings. The relief is welcome, naturally, but I must say, I sort of loved the unrelenting heat. In it, there is a certain respect for the natural order of things.
In my former life as an American urban dweller, for example, I never had the pleasure of experiencing rain as benediction. Even in the extreme heat of Texas and DC, readily available air conditioning provided enough relief to allow momentary forgetfulness. Life without air conditioning is a new thing entirely for me. Each night during the heat wave, it seemed that the atmosphere would reach a point where even it could no longer sustain the weight. The sky would open up and rain, blessed longed-for rain, would descend on the garden. The cool and the smell of life would waft through our open windows bringing not just reprieve but reminders of just how exhilarating it is to be human. Frail and finite, but alive. Some experiences evade my amateur skills of description. All I can say is that it was good. Very good.
We spent these evenings, languid and happy, looking for grace in glasses of lemon water, waiting for mercy in thunderstorms.

Summer, you will be missed.

Taken at the beach in Yverdon. Don’t you wish you could enjoy summer with this kind of abandon again?

“I wish to wrest education from the outworn order of doddering old teaching hacks as well as from the new-fangled order of cheap, artificial teaching tricks, and entrust it to the eternal powers of nature herself, to the light which God has kindled and kept alive in the hearts of fathers and mothers, to the interests of parents who desire their children grow up in favour with God and with men.”
Johann Heinrish Pestalozzi
an innovative educator and lover of lost children, immortalized on Yverdon’s Place Pestalozzi where he established a school in the château
From Juliet, the donkey who lives next door to my in-laws in France.

She’s a charmer, that is until she starts eating the lavender out of the flower bed.
A late morning assembly under colorful umbrellas and a piercingly blue sky; a perfectly Swiss audience, patriotic but not too;

a marching band and music reminiscent of happy things, infused by faint memories of times summery, freckled and free;

a welcome speech from the mayor, a political soapbox from a most political of state politicians, a reading of Switzerland’s famous first oath, and last but not least a rousing sermon from Yverdon’s handsome young pastor (I would say that I’m just biased, but the lady sitting next to me let out a decidedly un-Swiss “Amen!” when he finished, so “rousing” is objective indeed);

a moment of silence paid to those who chose to give their lives to Liberty and to Switzerland (Liberté et Patrie); a national hymn and a national prayer, the words and melodies of which I do not yet know, sung in unison;

and finally an aperitif, offered by the city to its citizens free of charge
that’s right, you heard me…taxpayer-funded wine drinking
…at noon.

Take that, Tea Party.

And that’s how we do Fête Nationale in Switzerland.
Subtitle
On this day in 1291… (yesterday, that is)…
…OR…
The story of Switzerland, written by Sarah with edits from Jean
Switzerland’s August 1st fête commemorates the Confederation’s first thrust toward unification valiant act of bravery establishing the Swiss independent, fearless spirit, which would thus endure throughout the ages. Brought together by common interest the noble ideal of self-determination and a common enemy, namely Austria’s evil Habsburg family, three robust and strong-minded representatives from the Cantons of Uri, Schwyz and Unterwald converged on a meadow hallowed ground on the banks of Lake Lucern, called Rütli or Grütli in German, where they pledged an eternal covenant to one another in order that they might secure, through their mutual allegiance, freedom and prosperity.
By 1315, the Duke of Austria (evil Habsburg) sent an army composed of 3,000-5,000 professional soldiers and knights to reclaim his authority over the aforementioned Uri, Schwyz and Unterwald, which then defeated the Duke inflicted an overwhelming defeat on the Duke with only 1,500 peasants. This battle is known to be foundational to the early establishment of Switzerland and its unwavering, glorious character. At that point, other cities and alpine communities joined the pact and defined themselves as “confederates” in what would ultimately be called the “Swiss Confederation” (Confederatio Helvetica).

Happy Swiss National Day, everyone! More to come later this week…
 My mom, Poët Laval 2011
I don’t so much mind that summer vacation is officially over. I don’t mind the morning alarm, the work, the responsibility or the routine. I just wish this lady could come over a couple times a month and tell me funny stories about growing up in Alabama; and help me make my apartment prettier with window boxes filled with flowers and herbs and fresh lettuce; and shop with me for clothing that we really don’t need but buy anyway because we are genetically preconditioned to hunt for good deals; and remind me how lucky I am to live near the mountains and that I have no excuse for not being in shape with so many alpine paths yet unexplored…and to stand up straight, quit biting my nails and stop using foul language.
I just wish Dallas, Texas was a little bit closer to Yverdon-les-Bains, Switzerland.
Consider yourself warned: A double cheeseburger in Switzerland consists of “double cheese” and not “double burger.”
That’s right. 1 burger, 2 slices of cheese. Welcome to the land of fromage.

Overheard in a café this morning :
Woman 1, obviously just back from a trip to Somewhere,USA: Do you know what I love about America?
Woman 2: What?
Woman 1: It is illegal to have your dog on the sidewalk!
Woman 2: Really? That’s fantastic!
Woman 1: I know! There are no dogs on any of the sidewalks; can you imagine?
Woman 2: Wow, that is really so convenient.
Me: ???????????????????

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